In the middle of winter — also known as the dark and cold lull between holiday festivities and the hopeful warming signs of spring — the days are often spent seeking indoor diversions, while our imaginations lead us to warm and sunny destinations. Look no further than the kitchen for immediate real-life respite. It may be yucky outside, but we can bring fun and lightness to our dinner with a heap of fresh and messy food, where all the attention is focused on the kitchen table — essentially, the center of our winter universe.
It’s time to make tacos.
These fish tacos give a green light to eating with our hands. They are bright and healthy, inviting everyone to dig in and assemble their own food. They are wonderfully flexible, too, combining year-round ingredients with a smattering of easy toppings and drizzles that can be prepared in advance, along with an optional salsa fresca that can either be homemade or store-bought. Choose lean, mild-flavored white-fish fillets that are firm and flaky when cooked, such as halibut. Mahi-mahi, snapper, lingcod, sea bass and grouper are good alternative choices.
Fish Tacos
Makes 8 tacos
INGREDIENTS
Slaw:
1/2 small head red cabbage, shredded
1/4 cup chopped fresh cilantro leaves
2 thin scallions, thinly sliced
2 tablespoons fresh lime juice
1 tablespoon extra-virgin olive oil
1 teaspoon honey
1/2 teaspoon ground cumin
1/2 teaspoon kosher salt
1/4 teaspoon freshly ground black pepper
Crema:
1 cup whole-milk Greek yogurt
2 tablespoons fresh lime juice
1 small garlic clove, pushed through a press
1/2 teaspoon honey
1/2 teaspoon Sriracha
Pinch of kosher salt
Salsa Fresca (optional):
8 ounces grape tomatoes or Roma tomatoes, finely chopped
1 jalapeno pepper, seeded, finely chopped
1/2 small red onion, finely chopped
1/4 cup chopped fresh cilantro
1 garlic clove, minced or pushed through a press
2 tablespoons fresh lime juice
1/4 teaspoon kosher salt
1/4 teaspoon freshly ground black pepper
Pinch of sugar, optional
Tacos:
1 teaspoon ground cumin
1 teaspoon sweet paprika
1 teaspoon kosher salt
1/4 teaspoon freshly ground black pepper
1/4 teaspoon cayenne pepper
1 1/2 pounds center-cut halibut fillets, cut in 1-inch strips
Extra-virgin olive oil
8 (8-inch) flour or corn tortillas, warmed or toasted
Avocado slices, cilantro sprigs and lime wedges for serving
DIRECTIONS
Make the slaw: Combine the cabbage, cilantro and scallions in a bowl. Whisk the lime juice, oil, honey, cumin, salt and black pepper in a small bowl. Pour over the cabbage and stir to coat. Taste for seasoning. Refrigerate for at least 30 minutes to allow the flavors to develop.
Make the crema: Combine the crema ingredients in a small bowl and stir to blend. Refrigerate until use.
Make the salsa (if using): Combine the salsa ingredients in a bowl. Stir to combine, then taste for seasoning. Let stand for 30 minutes to allow the flavors to develop or refrigerate until use.
Prepare the tacos: Combine the cumin, paprika, salt, black pepper and cayenne in a small bowl. Place the fish on a large plate and lightly coat on all sides with oil. Sprinkle the spices over the fish, gently turning to coat.
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Heat 1 to 2 tablespoons oil in a large skillet over medium heat. Arrange the fish in the skillet, without overcrowding and in batches as necessary. Cook until opaque through the center, 4 to 5 minutes, turning once with a spatula. Transfer to a platter.
To assemble, place 2 to 3 strips of fish on a warm tortilla. Top with some of the slaw and drizzle with the crema. Serve with avocado, additional cilantro, lime wedges and salsa fresca (if using).
Lynda Balslev is a San Francisco Bay Area cookbook author, food and travel writer and recipe developer.
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