There’s no doubting the appeal of Sonoma, home to some of California’s most venerable wineries. But the tiny community of Kenwood, which lies just 10 miles north, is a pocket worth visiting. It’s a destination for wine lovers, spa devotees and outdoorsy types in the heart of the Valley of the Moon.
Native American legends abound in this valley, with tales of mystical, sacred spaces where you can see the moon rise and set seven times each night — an illusion helped, perhaps, by the moonlight shifting through the jagged peaks of the Mayacamas Mountains, but romantic nonetheless.
This was the setting for Jack London’s 1913 novel, “Valley of the Moon,” too, whose plot echoes London’s journey from Oakland to this verdant valley. Today, it’s home to more than 100 wineries, including Kenwood Vineyards, which sources its grapes from London’s historic ranch in nearby Glen Ellen. But there’s plenty to do here besides wine tasting, making it a perfect weekend escape just an hour or two from the Bay.
Beltane Ranch, just south of Kenwood, makes a great base for weekend play. This 100-acre agricultural preserve is a historic property, owned by the Wood/Benward/Krause family for the past six generations. Today, the beautifully preserved farmhouse, built in 1892, operates as an upscale inn, its modern features and amenities juxtaposed with antique elements and the authentic farmhouse decor.
Historic Beltane Ranch, just south of Kenwood, California, in Glen Ellen, makes a great base for weekend play. The beautifully preserved farmhouse, built in 1892, operates as an upscale inn. (Courtesy Amber Turpin)
The property is farmed regeneratively, with an orchard, garden, vineyard and farmyard denizens — chickens, two longhorn cows, horses and a flock of geese — that greet you along the driveway. That stone wall you see along the drive dates back to the 1870s, when landowner John Drummond repurposed the stones he’d cleared out to plant the original vineyard with French cuttings. And the rose garden, raspberry brambles, tennis courts, pond views and extensive outdoor seating make this a popular spot for brides, as well as the rest of us.
Enjoy breakfast at the long wooden dining table near the library or on your own private balcony. Chef Neil Corsten, formerly at Forestville’s Farmhouse Inn, crafts a four-course dinner with estate wine pairings on Thursday through Saturday nights and a wood-fired dinner on Sunday evenings. On other evenings, the inn provides cheese, charcuterie and provision boards, amply piled with delicious nibbles from local producers and the ranch.
The rooms at the historic Beltane Ranch inn, just south of Kenwood, California, in Glen Ellen, mix modern amenities with period charm. (Courtesy Amber Turpin)
Don’t miss the cozy library, where you can read up on the rich and astounding history of Beltane Ranch — especially the part about ranch owner Mary Ellen Pleasant, a Black self-made millionaire and 19th century abolitionist.
If you have a spare meal slot open, make reservations for dinner at Golden Bear Station. Chef Joshua Smookler and his wife, Heidi He — whose buzzy Sonoma restaurant, Animo, closed in December — opened this charming eatery soon after in Kenwood.
Perch yourself at the white marble bar, where the bar stools are padded with sheepskin, and let the flickering candlelight, open kitchen, fun soundtrack and fresh flowers envelop you for the dining experience to come. Order the signature grilled Hen of the Woods mushrooms ($20) with sweet onion-yuzu cream and an egg yolk and one of the pizzas ($30-$32), which Smookler took months to perfect. With deep char from the wood oven, these are memorable pies, saucy in the best way.
Chef Joshua Smookler opened his Golden Bear Station restaurant in Dec. 2023 in Kenwood, where he turns out a wide array of dishes, including memorable pizzas. (Courtesy Amber Turpin)
Fresh pastas and entrees round out the menu, with dessert anything but an afterthought. Basque style burnt cheesecake ($14) and a brownie sundae for two ($24) with chunks of pecan pie, ice cream and hot fudge are among the options. A small by the glass wine selection prominently features Kenwood wine. And your bill comes in a lovely “Thank You” card, almost like a parting gift — said no one ever, until now.
Another great option for dinner or even just happy hour is Salt & Stone, which offers lively ambiance, tons of outdoor seating and a seafood-leaning menu with plenty of cocktails for the wine-weary palate. Try the pretty Starry Night with lychee puree and butterfly pea ice.
To work off some of the culinary feats of the area, take advantage of the vast natural setting and oak-studded hills with a hike at Sugarloaf Ridge State Park with features 25 miles of hiking trails in the Mayacamas Mountains and a seasonal waterfall at the headwaters of Sonoma Creek.
If that all sounds too active, opt for a soak at the historic Morton’s Warm Springs, another spot to enjoy the scenic Sonoma Creek, with geothermal pools heated to 84 to 94 degrees, depending on weather. Psst, the onsite Cafe 108° serves housemade Meyer lemonade.
And to really cap off the weekend, treat yourself to the Valley of the Moon massage at Kenwood Inn & Spa, a landmark property went through a series of upgrades and renovations last year. The spa is a quiet two-story retreat, with a marble soaking tub, automated Japanese toilets and a serene lounge area that overlooks the pool below. This much relaxation will send you back home fully grounded and ready for the week ahead.
If You Go
Beltane Ranch: Rooms start at $344. 11775 Sonoma Highway in Glen Ellen; beltaneranch.com
Golden Bear Station: Open from 4:30 to 9 p.m. Wednesday-Saturday and until 8:30 p.m. Sundays at 8445 Sonoma Highway in Kenwood; https://goldenbearstation.com.
Salt & Stone: Open for brunch on weekends, dinner daily and lunch everyday except Wednesday at 9900 Sonoma Highway in Kenwood: saltstonekenwood.com.
Sugarloaf Ridge State Park: Open from 6 a.m. to 8 p.m. daily at 2605 Adobe Canyon Road in Kenwood. Day use fees are $8-$10 per vehicle; sugarloafpark.org.
Morton’s Warm Springs: Open from 10 a.m. to 6 p.m. Tuesday through Sunday for the summer season at 1651 Warm Springs Road in Glen Ellen. Day use passes are $15-$25 by reservation at mortonswarmsprings.com.
The Kenwood Inn and Spa: The spa is open to day guests Monday-Thursday by reservation.10400 Sonoma Highway in Kenwood; kenwoodinn.com
